"The Sherpas, who don't get a lot of credit, do most of the work on most of the expeditions, as far as putting in the ropes. That's not to downplay anyone's summit, because you have to make the summit yourself and a Sherpa can not get you to the summit and get you down. However, the work of the Sherpas in laying the camps and the ropes has increased the success rate."
- George Martin, EverestNews.com

Lhakpa Tshering

Byron Smith wanted Lhakpa, the Sherpa name for someone born on a Wednesday, to be on this expedition. Lhakpa has been to the summit of Everest three times. His judgement and expertise are crucial, as sirdar, he's the one who will select the Sherpas who will go to the summit on this expedition.

"There are twelve Sherpas, and Lhakpa, our sirdar, will only choose seven to summit. The decision will be based on strength and dependability and not one of them wishes to demonstrate the slightest sign of weakness."
- Virginia Robinson, AGF Everest 2000 Physician's log

The name Sherpa does not describe a particular job, but a people. It comes from the Tibetan words "shar" (east) and "pa" (people) meaning "people from the east." Sherpas are one of the many ethnic groups living in Nepal but they also live in India, Bhutan, Tibet. A few thousand have also immigrated to Europe and North America. Sherpa names, in accordance to their Tibetan Buddhist religion, reflect the day of the week they were born so they will be placed under the protection of that day's god. Lhakpa was born on a Wednesday, Mingma on a Tuesday. Second names may be virtue names such as Tshering, "long life." More on Sherpa names

Not every Sherpa is a climber. Traditionally they are farmers, animal herders and traders who have lived in the Khumbu region of Nepal since immigrating from Tibet in the 1600s. Because they were familiar with the area and worked better than the westerners in the high altitude, several were hired by the first expeditions to Everest in the 1920s.

Sherpas take pride in their ability to climb Everest, but the great expeditions they make possible are not glamorous. For them it is work, very hard, dangerous work. Appa Sherpa, a climber who has summitted Everest 10 times and climbed with famous climbers such as Rob Hall and Anatoli Boukreev says it's just a job. He works to put his four children through school and says he doesn't want them to be Everest climbers.

Q.) Appa is this a job for you or an adventure?
A.) My job.
Q.) Do you get any adventure from it?
A.) Only Work.
- Appa Sherpa, in an interview with EverestNews.com

"I am a Sherpa orphan. My father was killed in the Khumbu Icefall while load-ferrying for an expedition in the late sixties. My mother died just below Pheriche when her heart gave out under the weight of the load she was carrying for another expedition in 1970. Three of my siblings died from various causes, my sister and I were sent to foster homes in Europe and the U.S. I have never gone back to my homeland because I feel it is cursed... I have vowed never to return home to be part of that sacrilege."
- Into Thin Air, quoted from October 14, 1996 internet posting

"In recent years the success rate's been better, a lot better. I would account that to the work of the Sherpas..." - George Martin, EverestNews.com Sound clip

The Sherpas do everything on the mountain. They climb ahead of the expeditions, set the ladders through the icefalls and set the ropes all the way to the summit. Not only do they climb, but they also create and maintain Basecamp and each of the other camps. They are the ones who laboriously carry the food, oxygen and other supplies to the precarious Camps III and IV. Several high-profile expedition leaders, including the late Rob Hall, admit that without Sherpas, it would be impossible to get commercial clients to the top.

"Base camp is nothing more than a pile of scattered rocks that have crashed down from the walls high above. It is chaos, at least until the Sherpas arrive. They are quick to establish order and build an expedition base camp using nothing more than rocks, tarps, and ropes in constructing kitchens, latrines, shower stalls, tent platforms, and altars for pujas. The Incas had nothing on these guys."
- Greg Wilson, Mountain Zone dispatch

"In my haste, I start directly for the Icefall. Chhongba quickly grabs my elbow and gently steers me in the right direction, clockwise around the lhapsung, the proper way to exit this area of worship. We both have to laugh knowing that committing such a serious mistake is not the best way to start a trip through the Icefall."
- Greg Wilson, Mountain Zone feature

"During the puja, the Lama sat in front of the lhapsung and read the ancient Tibetan script, while playing a Tibetan drum and using a pair of brass dishes as cymbals. He blessed the offerings of food, drink, prayer flags and khatas. At some point during the ritual, these items took on a holy aspect. A prayer flag before this was just a piece of cloth; afterwards one must treat it with respect, not step over it, and keep it clean. The khatas took on an aspect of good luck; the food and drink were considered ritually cleansed."
- David Mencin, Mountain Zone dispatch

Questions Kids Ask

It can cost approximately $60,000 to attempt to reach the summit of Everest. How much of this would go to the Sherpas?
Answer: The porters up to Basecamp are paid very little: 2-3 dollars/day. Sherpas are given a $2000 equipment budget and then make around $20 a day below Camp II, $50 a day between Camps II and III. And up to $350 a day above Camp III to the summit. More ...

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Everest '97: Sherpa Culture Sherpas on Everest The Nepalese Sherpas Sherpa History and Facts Sherpa Culture The Sherpa Culture of Mount Everest Reading list of Sherpa culture Tenzing Norgay Sherpa